No photos today. But the excuse is a good one. We landed last night at Goose Bay in Canada. Goose could perhaps be best described as a township hanging on to the very edge of civilisation for dear life. Whilst the hotel (singular) advertises high speed internet access, this is a definition of high speed that belongs firmly in the mid 1990s.
Wednesday morning in White Plains started in extremely unpromising fashion. I could tell this as I looked out of the window at Mike’s parents’ house and was unable to see the bottom of the garden for the dense fog. A quick look online revealed that our fears as we saw the vis drop last night had come true. All of the North Eastern Seaboard of the US and Canada was blanketed in dense fog with visibility in places down to a couple of hundred metres. By the time we were loading up the aircraft at 10:30, the situation had improved somewhat and most places had become flyable, albeit IFR.
We had originally thought in terms of splitting the journey up to Goose in Yarmouth on the South East tip of Canada. This would have meant a short overwater leg, but would also have made for a more picturesque journey than travelling up the centre of Maine - a state which just seems to go on and on and on in one long featureless brown continuum. But, with coastal areas being the last to clear, this didn’t make much sense, so we elected instead to retrace my steps of March, and head up in one hop to Sept Iles, Quebec, and then on the brief hop to Goose itself.
Flightplan filed, we jumped into the aircraft, started up and called for taxi, at which point we hit the first of two delays. White Plains clearance claimed never to have heard of Sept Iles and its designator CYZV. “Where is it near?”, we were asked. Now in all honesty, Sept Iles is “near” nowhere, so this question had us stumped. We shut down and waited for them to sort themselves out, which in due course they did. Having filed GPS Direct, we were handed the mother of all clearances - a million and one waypoints connected by some of the most jagged indirect airways you could ever hope not to meet. Late lunch in Sept Iles was already looking like afternoon tea. We read the clearance back and taxied, and this is where we hit delay number 2. Just as you occasionally see at airports like JFK, stretched out in front of us waiting to go was an enormous line of other aircraft. Gulfstreams, Learjets, Galaxies. Aviation is a great leveller. There are always plenty of people in nicer, bigger, shinier aircraft than you. On this occasion, they were all in front of us too. It took the better part of 35 minutes before it became our turn to go, but once we did get airborne, we were at least rewarded with an early turn direct to Bangor and a climb to 9000 feet.
There is a powerful high pressure system sitting off the South Eastern edge of the US at the moment, so once on our way, the somewhat indifferent winds that we had seen coming into White Plains were replaced by a very welcome and strengthening tailwind. Even leaned back quite aggressively, the Bonanza was scooting along at a pleasing 180 knots in clear air above the thinning cloud and mist layer.
But into every life, a little rain must fall, and in our case it started to fall from a stalled warm front sitting over Southern Canada. The price we paid for avoiding the fog was flying into the increasing drizzle, cloud and poor visibility as we closed in on Sept Iles. So after 3.5 hours or so of flying, Mike guided us down the RNAV approach onto Runway 09 at Sept Iles, leaving our 9000 foot cruising level and winds (now swung around to come from the west) for the murk below. But this was not just any murk. At 9000 feet the winds had been around 270 at 15. On the ground, they were reporting 070 at 10. The better part of a 180 degree sheer. And, as if to emphasise the point, whereas we had been cruising in 10 Celcius air, as we descended, it got a lot colder. This was a classic temperature inversion.
Freezing cold and rain aren’t a great combination, but fortunately, the Total Air Temperature remained positive and after a pleasant flight we arrived in a drizzly Sept Iles an hour or so later than originally planned, and very much aware that we were no longer in Oklahoma.
Having called CANPASS (the Canadian Customs Service) ahead of our departure, customs formalities were as simple as calling a toll-free number, announcing our arrival, and receiving a clearance number. When Mike had called them earlier to provide our flight details, we learnt that I am “known” to them. No further details were necessary as soon as my Name and date of birth had been passed. Perhaps I should strike Canada off my holiday plans for the future.
Once inside the terminal, I filed flightplans for Goose Bay and contacted the handling agent to let them know that we would be late, whilst Mike arranged the fueling. These kind of flights work much better with two people spreading the workload. Then, mission accomplished, we set about trying to get back airside. This proved harder than you might imagine. It took 30 frustrating minutes to find the one security person who actually cared about GA. All the rest of them were occupied solely in herding a few disinterested locals onto flights to exotic places like Wabush. They really didn’t want to help us!
It was drizzling harder than ever as we headed back out across the tarmac to the aircraft. The Weather man had warned us about the inversion once again, but had told us about the ever-increasing tailwinds that we should be seeing on the way up North. This looks particularly good for the Greenland legs later today.
After a much quicker departure, we rapidly climbed up into the murk, finally coming out between layers as we reached 9000. After a few minutes hovering around 0 degrees, the temperature had indeed started to rise again as the tailwinds picked up. After little more than an hour and a half, we made our gentle approach down the ILS into Goose, breaking into clear air at around 3500. Woodwards, the handling agent were their ever-efficient selves and after being offered a “free ice-cream”, we were bussed the short distance to the hotel for a meal and bed.
And now as I write, we are a couple of hours away from our departure for Greenland and Reykjavik beyond. Martin Courage never did make it into Goose last night. I am guessing that the tailwinds that will help us today slowed him down horribly.
The weather for Narsarsuaq is out already and it doesn’t look too bad at all:
METAR BGBW 060750Z 20012KT 170V230 9999 BKN100 01/M06 Q0990 RMK 6AC =
TAF BGBW 060800Z 060918 22010KT 9999 BKN100 TEMPO 0912 25018KT BKN060 TEMPO 1218 29022KT BECMG 1315 SCT100=
If things go according to plan, the next posting will be from Reykjavik, where we should be meeting up with Mike’s partner in Crime, Peter, keen to join us for the last leg back to England.